Seward is located on the east side of Kenai Peninsula, on Resurrection Bay. I thought we could just drive around the bottom from Homer. Nope…those darn although beautiful mountains are in the way. We had to drive back north and then down. It is such a scenic drive and it looks so different driving the other way. Beautiful from every direction.
Seward was heavily damaged during the 1964 earthquake and incoming 40’ tidal waves. The harbor facilities were almost destroyed, and the entire economic base of the town was wiped out. Much of the waterfront area destroyed in 1964 was leveled and now serves as the campgrounds. We were lucky to reserve two waterfront spots.
After setting up, we drove to Kenai Fjords National Park and hiked to see Exit Glacier. As with most of the glaciers, it continues to recede but beautiful nonetheless. It was easy to picture what it looked like with the valley full of the ice. We ran into a local adventure guide who took his packraft (a deflated kayak in his backpack). We watched as he inflated it and took off down the fast-moving river.
Day 1: After Helen and I enjoyed a 3-mile morning Murphy walk around the town, the four of us visited the Alaska SeaLife Center, opened in 1998. It is an aquarium and Alaska’s only marine mammal rehabilitation facility. It is the only facility in the world dedicated to studying the northern marine environment, combining research with public education. We learned more about sea birds, whales, seals, walruses, and of course, salmon.
Later in the day we hiked the dog friendly Tosina Creek Trail. From it’s reviews, we thought it was a flat hike along the creek. Wrong! We went up and then down to the turnaround point at the creek (where we saw salmon swimming upstream), and then we back up and then down to our car. It was a fun hike, especially since Murphy could join us.
Day 2: Helen and I walked to the harbor area and what did we spy? Oh no…not another bakery with cinnamon rolls. Yep, as well as raspberry cream cheese bear claws, so we each bought one of each for taste tests. Unfortunately, the rolls were not very good. I could not taste any cinnamon in my roll!
Thanks to Greg & Helen watching Murphy, Dave & I were able to enjoy a 4-hour Resurrection Bay cruise on a beautiful catamaran. Captain Tanner and his crew spotted a bald eagle, lots of puffins, a mama mountain goat with her kid, harbor seals, sea otters and twice we were able to patiently wait for a humpback calf to surface and see its tail. And just as it happened when we were on the LuLu Belle in Valdez, when the captain said it was time to move on and starting turning the boat around, the whale breached! I did not hear of anyone getting a photo this time. I only saw the splash at the end. Dratz!
After the cruise, the four of us headed into downtown Seward and enjoyed a Mexican dinner, gelato, and a stroll into a few art galleries. Dave purchased a sea otter print I couldn’t resist from a local artist. Another great day in Alaska!
Day 3: Greg & Helen left early in the am to tackle the strenuous Harding Icefield Hike, which hikes alongside the Exit Glacier. It is in Kenai Fjords National Park and dogs are not allowed, so Dave and I stayed in town and took Murphy on a short hike at the Two Lakes Park. Some young girls were berry picking and gave me some to try. Blueberries, salmonberry and a watermelon berry. The blueberries were a little tart but the others were scrumptious.
Here are several pictures from Greg & Helen’s 8 mile strenuous up the Harding ice field. The Ice field is the birthplace of glaciers. It gets 70′ of snow a year. As the snow builds up over thousands of years and compresses into ice, the ice is forced out and down the mountains as glaciers. If you include its glaciers, the ice field covers over 1,000 square miles. Greg & Helen hiked 4 miles in a continuous uphill climb, gaining 2,910 feet of elevation. After the magnificent views from the top, then they had to descend along the same path for 4 miles all downhill (which can be very tricky and tough on your knees). They rock!
Seward is also known for its gorgeous murals scattered on buildings throughout town. As Helen and I would walk Murphy each morning, we would see different ones. Below are just a few of the creative murals we saw.
It truly is a small world. Our friends, DeeDee & Jon who we met on the loop, shared that another couple they met on the loop were also in Seward. DeeDee sent me a picture of their camper and we found it in our campground. While Greg & Helen were off on their epic hike, Dave and I went over to introduce ourselves and chat about the loop. Well, guess what? We knew them too! We actually were in Manitowoc, WI when they were first leaving for the loop. We had dinner with them their first night on the loop in Sheboygan, WI. Yes, it is a small world after all. 🙂 (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture). Oh, and they wrote a book about their Great Loop experience, entitled “Exploring America’s Great Loop”, by James & Jill Iverson (available on Amazon).
As Helen and I were on our final morning Murphy walk along the shore, a bus driver pulled over, jumped out and approached us with a box of milkbones for Murphy. Now, he’s really getting a big head!
We are now off to Whitter, on the northwest coast of the Kenai Peninsula. We have heard “it is prettier in Whittier” or “the weather is shittier in Whittier.” We shall see!
I love these bay cruises Brenda, The weather has been amazing Dave, I love the morning treats Ms. Helen gives me and now bus drivers too Murphy