Although the fall foliage on the rivers is colorful, traveling down the rivers is pretty boring. To add some excitement, we started our trip down the Tennessee-Tombigbee (Tenn-Tom) waterway in early morning fog. We hoped for a sunrise start to reach our next destination in daylight, as the sunlight hours now are much shorter. We also had to lock through three locks before arriving at our next destination, and you just don’t know what you delays might encounter at each lock.
We only delayed our departure about 30 minutes as the fog appeared to be lifting, however, once we got into the more narrow divide cut of the Tenn-Tom, the fog was quite dense so it was slow going. Not long after we started down the river, we were hailed by a non-Looper boat, Journey, headed down to Florida for the winter. They were running faster than us and wanted to ensure we knew they were coming, and once closer, we slowed down for a safe pass. Not 15 minutes after Journey passed us, a much larger (66’) fast cruiser came up on our port (left) side. He did not hail us, or slow down, especially given the foggy conditions. When Dave tried to hail him on the radio, there was no reply. Dave radioed Journey to let them know of the non-considerate boat coming their way.
As we neared the first lock, on AIS we could see a gathering of about 10 boats in front of the lock, waiting for a barge to lock through. AIS is an “automatic identification system” which transmits a ship’s position so that others ships are aware of its position. Having AIS installed on Slo Pace has greatly helped safe passages, as we can see the large towboats with barges and communicate travel intentions. Unfortunately, not all larger pleasure craft have it installed (it’s not a requirement – but a great safety feature). Back to the story, the group waiting at the lock including Journey and the inconsiderate boat Dave named “Chicago” (their hailing port which is all we could read as they zoomed past and waked us). On AIS, we could see the barge leave the lock and the waiting boats make their way in the lock. We were at least 30 minutes out, so we thought we missed the locking. Once the boats were secured inside, the lock master radioed us (he could see us on AIS) and asked if we were planning to go through the lock. We affirmed and he said he would hold the lock for us. YIPPEE! Dave increased our engine speed (higher than we normally run) and we arrived at the lock about 15 minutes later. I felt bad, all those boats had to wait for us, after waiting for the barge. Such is locking on the rivers.
After departing this lock, four or five of the “faster” boats took off toward the second lock. Once they arrived, they were told they had to wait for the rest of the group to catch up as they were going to lock us all together due to low water levels. Journey‘s captain later said, “I guess I didn’t need to use all of that fuel”. Included in our group was a sailboat, which travels even slower than the trawlers, which delayed the group even further once at a lock
And so it went for the third lock as well, faster boats waiting for the second group, and then all waiting for the sailboat. We all arrived safely and docked at Midway Marina. Whew!
The next morning was foggy again, which delayed our start until 8:00 am. The first lock was about a mile from the marina, so once again, the lockmaster requested all boats arrive and lock through together and we repeated yesterday’s process through 4 locks.
After an chilly overnight stop at anchor (38° when we woke up), we arrived at a marina in Columbus, MS. A looper friend who has completed the loop recommended we eat at Hank’s BBQ. We gathered up a group of loopers and off we went. We didn’t realize Hank has won multiple BBQ championships. The BBQ was excellent and two of us brought extra to eat the following day (and a bottle of BBQ sauce as well).
We headed back down the rivers again, once again coordinating group lockings and an overnight stop at anchor. Dave always looks for anchorages with a boat ramp for easy short access to dinghy Murphy for potty runs, and this one was perfect. Just across Slo Pace on the river bank was a boat ramp. If only Murphy would leap off the boat, swim to shore, potty, then swim back again we would be set! We also met up with a family from Canada and introduced them to Little Beers. They are only 1 of 2 Canadian boats with official cruising permits to leave Canada (so far). They can cruise for a total of 6 months out of 365 days, so they plan to hang out in the Bahamas for a few months before heading north on the east coast and back into Canada.
We are continuing are trek south to Mobile, AL with a two-night stay in Demopolis, AL (Wal-Mart run) and then continuing down the rivers. At Demopolis, we have completed the Tenn-Tom waterway and are now on the Black Warrior-Tombigbee waterway. As we get closer and closer to Florida, we hear home calling….
Fun Facts: Distanced traveled so far: 5,476 miles in 7 months, 3 weeks, stopping at 142 unique locations, traveling through 19 states, and traversing through 79 locks (so far!)
Thanks for following along on our adventure,
Brenda with Captain Dave, and Marvelous Murphy