It was a bit tough going from almost a week in the wilderness of Denali to the “big” city of Fairbanks. Fairbanks is only a little over a 2 hours drive north of Denali National Park along the Parks Highway. The Parks Highway, originally known as the Anchorage to Fairbanks Highway, was completed in 1971, linking the state’s two largest metropolitan areas. Many people think it was named Parks Highway as it passes right by Denali state and national parks, but it was named in honor of George Parks, governor of the Territory of Alaska from 1925 to 1933.
Alaska does a great job in providing resources for tourists plus we had lots of recommendations from friends and a RVing to Alaska Facebook group. We had a list of things we wanted to see and do in Fairbanks. Will we be able to fit it all in during the 3 days we are here?
After settling in at our Fairbanks campground, we set off for the Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitors Center, see the northern most Antler Arch, and visit a recommended brewery. The moose & caribou arch was quite impressive (It is hard to imagine how those animals regrow such huge antlers each year). The HooDoo Brewery was quite busy and it had a pizza food truck on site, so we indulged. Helen and I got a kick out of seeing the locals in shorts, short sleeve shirts and even sandals while the area “visitors” were in pants, long sleeves, and light jackets. It was in the mid-60’s after all. 🙂
The second day we headed for the Tanana Valley Farmer’s Market and enjoyed freshly made pastries, some fireweed tea (hoping it would help my cold) and a big bag of kettle corn. Next, we stopped by a bakery which a review said they had the “best ever” cinnamon rolls. It has been a while since we have had a cinnamon roll. It was closed! Dratz.
Next, we headed to the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum. Incredible. Each of the 70 or so antique autos were in running condition. The collection includes everything from horseless carriages, speedsters, cyclecars, racers, and classics from the 1920’s and 1930’s. Most were in pristine condition. They also had vintage women’s clothing to match the era of the cars. They call the exhibit “Treads and Threads.” I took so many pictures; I am not sure which ones to include below – such gorgeous cars and dresses.
Next on our list was Pioneer Park. I had heard it was a great place to visit from fellow RVers. Usually, the recommendations we get are spot on. Unfortunately, not this one. It is a 44-acre historical theme park (free admission and dog friendly – two good things). Dave and I took a short (7 minute) train ride around the park (you get two laps), while Greg, Helen and Murphy walked to see the historic gold-rush era buildings. The park also had a small aviation museum and a 90-year-old steamboat which is undergoing renovations.
Our final stop of the day was to Silver Gulch Brewing & Bottling Co., the northernmost brewery in North America. We enjoyed their beers and homemade root beer and had a scrumptious dinner, including a beer cheese soup with reindeer sausages served with a warm, freshly made pretzel. We also has a birthday toast to Greg’s brother Pat and Helen’s sister Suskia. Happy Birthday! And, now we have visited the northernmost antler arch and the northernmost brewery. Score!
Ready for more? We were. Another recommendation was to have breakfast at The Cookie Jar. Well, guess what they make fresh each morning? You guessed it! Cinnamon rolls. These rolls were enormous! They had three varieties, traditional, raisin, and chocolate chip. For those who know me well, know I love chocolate, so I really wanted a chocolate chip one but they were so huge. I was willing to compromise and order a traditional for Dave and I to split later that day. Dave insisted that I get a chocolate chip one so he ordered two, one traditional and one chocolate chip When we received our to-go rolls, Dave had two traditional and one chocolate chip. I guess the server didn’t quite understand our order. We decided why not, our server had already rung them up and we could freeze them. Greg ordered a raisin so we will be able to rate the deliciousness of all three.
With our bellies full from a tasty breakfast, off to LARS we went, the Large Animal Research Station, a biological and ecological research center which is a part of the University of Alaska. They study a large group of Musk Oxen and a group of reindeer with over 100 animals combined. We took an hour-long tour and learned so much from our guide. She wrote a paper in 6th grade on Musk Oxen and her class took a field trip to LARS to see them first hand. Her fund of knowledge was incredible and she continues to be very passionate about Musk Oxen. Ironically, Musk Oxen are not part of the Musk or Oxen families, but rather are more akin to goats. They are truly pre-historic, at one time living along with saber tooth cats. Reindeer are of the same family as caribou, but were originally from Europe or Asia where caribou are from North America. We first heard reindeer were domesticated Caribou, then learned it really depended on its lineage. But reindeer do seem to be quite tame.
The day would not be complete without another dinner out (I am afraid to weigh myself!). This time a good friend recommended The Pump House. The building was originally the Chena Pump House which was used in gold rush days, to pump water from the Chena River up 400’ through a 3-mile ditch to provide water for the hydraulic hoses used to wash away the gravel to prepare the surface for dredging. We dined outside on the Chena River. The dinner was scrumptious – Alaskan Halibut, Crab Cobb Salad, Seafood Risotto and the desserts were terrific. Not a crump left on our plates.
We have one full day left of our stay in Fairbanks. We were hoping to spend time at Chena Hot Springs for another soak, but it was an hour and fifteen minutes away from our campground. We honestly did not have time to spend 2 ½ hours driving just to soak for 45 minutes. So, it will be on our list to do when we return. Instead, we visited nearby North Pole, Alaska and went to the Santa Clause House, which was full of any type of Christmas decoration you might want, a sweet shop, and we visited Santa’s reindeers.t
Our last adventure took us on the Riverboat Discovery, a sternwheeler on the Chena River. It was a 3-hour tour and great fun! We saw a bush pilot take off and land on the river next to the boat, we stopped by Trail Breaker Kennel, which is owned by Dave Monson, husband to the late Susan Butcher, 4-time Iditarod Champion. Dave also has competed (and won) many sled dog races. As with the Denali sled dog team, their huskies were very excited to pull Dave around their track. All the huskies in the kennel were quite vocal about wanting to go as well. Then, the riverboat dropped us off at Chena Village, to learn about the early Athabascan (local Native American) way of life. Included were two Moose whose antlers got locked during a fight and they died that way (found in 2014). So sad. And one of the Athabascans modeled a gorgeous parka made out of several animal hides/fur. We then headed back to dock, after sampling some of Captain Jim’s amazing smoked salmon.
The riverboat excursion tours, initially started in 1950 by Jim & Mary Binkley in a boat he built in his backyard, have been run by 5 generations of Binkley’s, with 11 of them having captain’s licenses. We were on their 3rd and largest riverboat which can hold up to 900 passengers. We counted 12 buses as we left, which would hold 600 people, plus those who came direct, as we did. It is hard to describe, but you wouldn’t know you were on a riverboat with over 700 people. The Binkley family does an outstanding job.
Well, that wraps up our whirlwind Fairbanks stop. Phew! Thanks for hanging in there to read about our pretty hectic schedule. I can’t believe how much we saw in the short time we were here. We easily could have stayed a week or longer. We did not have time to go for a hike or go on a bike ride and with the sightseeing we did, it was not the most Murphy friendly stop. However, he did go to doggy daycare when we went on the riverboat and the campground had a dog park, so he got some fun playtimes in.
Oh…and on our way to pick up Murphy, Helen spied a Moose in a creek off of the highway. She is so great at spotting animals! We took a short detour and look at the great pictures she took. Poor Moose looked very skinny.
Time for a nap Brenda, We will be back Dave, and A Dog Park in the Campground and Doggy day care? Well, they are trying Murphy
So much to see and do. I’m curious about what reindeer meat tasted like.
Wow! Who knew there would be so much to do in Alaska and you didn’t even do any hikes or bike rides! Just gonna hafta go myself. Thanks for sharing!
What a wonderful trip.
That geese soup looked scrumptious,
I knew deer and elk shed ghrir hog NS dvery year but never yhojghy a moose would until you mentioned it.
The train ride should be a little longer snd actually go some place
Did you get to enter the wheelhouse on the riverboat. That would be a treat for you guys after your boat trip
I love fresh halibut. And Alaska has some of the best.
Wow. What a trip